The ampel hybrid of surfiniya petunia, the cultivation and care of which is not particularly difficult, has been known for two decades. A unique thermophilic plant from the genus Petunias was bred by the Japanese and represents almost two-meter shoots, strewn with a violent waterfall of large flowers of various colors.
An ornamental plant is happily bred to decorate open terraces and balconies, garden beds. They bloom all summer and autumn until the coldest days.
Plant varieties with photos
More than twenty types of surfinias are popular among flower growers, many of which also have well-known varieties. Some of them are described in more detail.
Surfinia ampelous
This is the general name for the perennial species grown in the garden. Shoots without leaves hibernate in basements, and as spring approaches, leaves and buds appear on them.
Surfinia ampelous
Surfinia Elow
One of the first breeding works to breed ampel petunias. It blooms with pale yellow flowers early and generously until frost.
Surfinia Elow
Surfinia Burgundy
A branchy bush in abundance strewn with flowers of the rich shade of the wine of the same name. Pleasing for several months.
Surfinia Burgundy
Surfinia Double Purple
Complex flowers with a bright purple hue. Refers to fast-growing varieties that tolerate high humidity in summer. Shoots can go down a meter with a twenty-centimeter bush growth.
Surfinia Double Purple
Surfinia Hot Pink
This species is characterized by the large size of flowers in two shades: crimson stripes stand out brightly against a pink background. They run from the middle to a wavy border along its edges.
Surfinia Hot Pink
Surfinia Table White
This is an early type of surfinia with flowering lasting almost six months. He is also loved for the snow-white shade of flowers that resemble bells, and their abundance on the bushes.
Surfinia Table White
Surfinia Red
These are spherical, miniature bushes, covered with bright red flowers. The flowering is early and long-lasting, but the variety is rather capricious in its care.
Surfinia Red
Surfinia and petunia what is the difference
Surfinia is one of the nine species of the petunia family, in fact, a hybrid of it. This subtlety can only be distinguished by specialists, novice florists confuse them. Its advantages in relation to the mother plant:
- high resistance to negative weather conditions: rain and wind;
- early, long and abundant flowering with many shades and varietal diversity;
- low susceptibility to diseases and pests;
- accelerated vegetation.
Interestingly, surfiniya has time to form into a full-fledged plant with almost six months of flowering in a couple of months.
Necessary conditions for growing surfiniya
How to preserve surfini in winter? In the middle lane, perennial surfacing in winter can only be preserved indoors. After flowering, almost all shoots are cut off, leaving twenty-centimeter fragments with leaves. Vases are placed on a warmed veranda, where there is enough light. Water it occasionally to keep the earth from drying out.
Perennial surfinia is cut off and the pot is stored on an insulated veranda
By the end of winter, the plants begin to revive. It is important that the temperature in the room does not fall below plus five degrees. Plants in early spring need good lighting.
How to plant surfiniya
At home, the cultivation of surfinia begins with sowing seeds or cuttings. These methods are a valid alternative to the brood culture described above.
How to grow Surfinia from seed, selection of seeds and planting
For sowing, fresh seeds are chosen, the shelf life of which has not expired. Plated copies are stored less than usual. The suitability of the seed can be judged by the instructions on the package.
Surfinia can be propagated by seed
Sowing seeds is carried out in early spring according to the following scheme:
- Prepare a container with light earth that is freely permeable to air and water. It can be peat with sand or peat pellets. At the bottom, there must be a drainage layer of small stones or foam balls.
- The seeds are too small. They are sown in several pieces on a pre-moistened surface, without falling asleep with earth, and covered with a film or transparent glass.
- Irrigation is done from a spray bottle, preventing the soil from drying out, and the improvised greenhouse is also regularly ventilated.
- The pots are placed in a warm, well-lit room, warmed up to 20 degrees. But the crops should not be exposed to direct rays of the sun.
- After a couple of weeks, when the first shoots appear, then the roots are sprinkled with calcined sand. This strengthens and protects against decay. By that time, there is no need for greenhouses. After a while, sand is poured onto the seedlings again.
- For plants with two leaves, a pick is carried out. They are seated one by one in separate containers. When growing seedlings in peat tablets, there is no need for picking.
in a container then I recommend purchasing GrowKo Peat Pots.
Once the roots grow through the bottom of the Peat Pots then you will want to transplant it to a larger pot, such as Viagrow 5 Gallon Nursery Pot
How to grow Surfinia from cuttings
Surfinia are often propagated by cuttings. A large specimen is cut in early autumn. It is immediately planted in fertile soil. The seedling is covered with a film or a greenhouse from a glass jar and placed in a warm and bright place. Don't forget to water your plant regularly. In this case, the soil must be drained and not retain excess moisture.
With the appearance of new leaves on the plant, the greenhouse is removed. The temperature when grafting surfinia should not fall below 20 degrees. By mid-spring, a viable young shrub will be formed, which can soon be placed in a permanent place where it will bloom profusely.
Seedling care
Surfinia is a light-loving plant, therefore, good lighting of the seedlings and, as necessary, artificial lighting without direct sunlight provides further abundant flowering of the bush.
When growing surfinia seedlings, you need to provide good lighting.
With the appearance of several leaves on the seedlings, the bushes are pinched with the removal of the upper pair of leaves. This stimulates the appearance of lateral cuttings and allows for a branchy and lush bush.
By the end of spring, they are ready for planting in open ground. Seedlings begin to feed three weeks after the first shoots, combining with watering. The initial concentration of a complex fertilizer with a predominance of potassium is weaker than that indicated in the instructions, and then it increases to normal. Feeding is carried out at two-week intervals.
Reference. When planting seedlings in pots or flower beds, it is best to combine plants with contrasting colors to create a colorful picture. You can also alternate colors in a specific sequence.
Where is it better to grow surfinia
Surfinia does not like shading and needs sunlight for growth and abundant flowering. It is also not desirable that the pots with a flower hang from the leeward side. Otherwise, long shoots with bright colors will constantly get confused by gusts of wind.
It is advisable to place planters with surfini on the leeward side.
The plant feels great on the sunny side, where there is no thick shade and drafts. It is advisable that the pots are protected by a canopy from rain drops on the flowers. Ideally, the sun will illuminate the plants in the morning, and then they would be slightly shaded.
Soil and lighting requirements
All members of the petunia family love sunlight. If the seedlings do not have enough light, then the sprouts are weak with a small number of flower buds. The duration of daylight hours should not be less than 10 hours, therefore, plants need illumination in the evening.
The ideal soil for growing surfinia is loam with a pH of 5-6, it also applies well to sandy soils. The plant adapts perfectly to any fertile substrate. For normal growth, he needs a spacious pot.
If you want to plant your mint in a container then I recommend using a potting mix specifically designed for containers.
Important! Humus, especially fresh, should not be introduced when planting surfinia.
How to correctly plant in open ground, we carry out the hardening of surfinia
Before moving surfiniya to a flower bed, the plant is hardened. A few days before, the seedling is taken out in the middle of the day for a couple of hours to adapt to the garden. They do this at the end of May.
Before planting surfinia on a flower bed, it needs to be hardened
Young plants are planted in the soil of the same composition where they were before. You can add hydrogel or perlite there. The ampelous plant looks beautiful in balcony boxes or in hanging pots with side holes.
Carefully! In case of prolonged rains, it is better to bring the plants under a roof or cover with foil, otherwise large raindrops can damage the delicate petals.
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How do you take care of Surfinia?
During the flowering season, three things are important for surfinia: adequate lighting, constant watering, and regular feeding . Then she will bring joy with an abundance of delicate, fragrant flowers of bright colors. It is also important that the bushes on the flowerbed do not suppress the weeds, and they have enough room for growth.
Rules and requirements for watering and feeding plants
Daily watering is a prerequisite for good surfinia development. But she needs a small amount of water: it is better to water more often, but not pour. It is also good to spray hanging flowerpots from a spray bottle. The water should be settled and not cold. In the heat, it is better not to water the flowers, but to do it in the morning and in the evening.
Surfinia hates the gulf
Delicate flowers need periodic feeding. Bushes need potassium for better flowering . Top dressing with special ready-made compositions for flowering plants is done twice a week, combining them with watering. The same rule is observed as when watering: more often, but in a smaller amount.
Plant diseases and pests
The flowers are quite resistant to pests and diseases. However, excessive watering, stagnant water and too acidic soil can provoke fungal diseases. The most dangerous enemy of surfinia is the spider mite; when it hits the leaves, the plants die. Spraying with soapy water or special preparations: BioAdvanced All-in-One Rose and Flower Care, Fertilizer, Insect Killer and Disease Control helps to fight it , but the best remedy is proper care.
Shoots are sometimes affected by late blight, this is expressed by the appearance of brown spots, from which the plants soon disappear. Treatment with copper-containing preparations, in particular, a solution of copper sulfate , allows you to fight this infection, as well as get rid of the brown spot similar to it.
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